As day length shortens, average temperatures begin to drop and available food resources diminish, hundreds of thousands of migratory birds from all over northern and Western Europe head south into the most southerly corner of Spain. Some will finish their journey here and remain for the winter, however, the majority will simply stopover here for a short while to “rest and refuel” before crossing the short distance over the Strait of Gibraltar and continuing their southward migration to sub-Saharan Africa.

Perhaps the most conspicuous of the migratory groups are the soaring birds such as storks, kites, vultures, buzzards and eagles. These birds rely on thermals for their migration as they cannot sustain long periods of flight by only beating their wings. For them, the Strait of Gibraltar is one of the obligatory crossing points for moving between Europe and Africa. From August until the end of October, dependant upon the strength and direction of the winds, thousands of Storks and Birds of Prey can be seen daily, sometimes at astonishingly close range. Overlooking the shortest sea-crossing and with truly stunning views of the north-African coastline the coastal hills near Tarifa provide an ideal location to observe the flocks gathering in the thermals, impressive numbers of other raptors and a whole host of other migrants moving south, (see “One day in September” ).

Whilst the coastal hills near Tarifa can be awesome for soaring birds, if the winds are wrong, or it is other groups of birds being sought it is important to know where to look elsewhere in the vicinity. The La Janda wetlands, a few kilometres north of Tarifa can, during the autumn months, support an incredible diversity including many birds of prey, freshwater species such as herons, ibis, spoonbill, ducks, rails, waders, marsh terns etc and many migratory (and resident) passerines (see “Conservation of La Janda” ) This is a vast area and once again, it is important to know where to look. The beaches, particularly Los Lances (immediately north of Tarifa) can be very productive for gulls, terns, waders etc but an early morning visit here is recommended. The saltmarsh at Barbate can also be excellent for typical coastal species and as with pretty much anywhere in the area, the bushes, areas of scrub or grasslands can host many surprises.

At ‘Birding Andalucia’ we have years of experience birding this unique corner of southern Andalucia. We know all of the key locations, plus numerous ‘fallback sites’ for those highly sought after species and, have an excellent understanding of how the weather can influence the distribution of migrants on a day to day basis. Our bespoke day tours are designed to your requirements so if you want to see specific ‘target species’, observe the mass movements of soaring birds or simply wish to witness the most spectacular and awe-inspiring ornithological events in the whole of Europe, contact us to reserve a date .

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In the most southerly corner of Spain, just a few kilometres inland from the Strait of Gibraltar and adjoining the mountains and forests of the Parque Natural de los Alcornocales to the east lies the La Janda basin, one of the most remarkable and critically important places for birds in Europe.

In the spring hundreds of thousands of birds migrating north from Africa rest and refuel here before flying onto the breeding grounds in western and northern Europe. In autumn these birds, together with their young once again stop over here before continuing their migration to sub-Saharan Africa for the winter. La Janda itself supports an amazing, diverse variety of breeding birds including many of Europe’s most dramatic, beautiful, unusual, localised or rare species and in the winter is host to a truly impressive congregation of raptors, water birds and passerines.

At the heart of La Janda was a rich mosaic of permanent pools and lagoons which during the winter months would flood to form one extensive shallow lake covering more than 4,000 hectares. With its associated reed beds, marshland and riparian growth, La Laguna de la Janda is regarded as one of the finest of all Iberian wetlands. This is shown by the wetlands supporting important breeding and wintering populations of many globally (Appendix 1) or regionally (Appendix 2) ‘threatened’ birds.

History

The Laguna, together with the surrounding extensive grasslands, pastures, wild olive groves and cork oak forests of La Janda have some of the oldest authentic ornithological inventory in the World. Nearly 200 cave paintings dating back to the Neolithic and Mesolithic periods (>10,000 years B.P.) celebrating the abundant Herons, Ibis, Storks, Flamingo, Geese, Ducks, Raptors, Gallinules and Bustards have been discovered in one of the nearby caves called Tajo de las Figuras. Much later, Arab and medieval travellers marvelled at the incredible diversity of La Janda in their writings. By the 1860′s, when the first of a spate of British ornithologists started to document the birds of this region, the fate of the Laguna had tragically already been decided.

The early attempts to drain the Laguna (Moret Concession 1825–1838) were badly planned and largely failed. However, a second phase (Colonias Agricolas SA 1929-1954) did succeed in draining the wetlands, critically damaging this fragile ecosystem. It was during this phase (1949) that much of La Janda, despite being under ‘public ownership’, was divided up and awarded to a handful of individuals on a 99 year lease. By the early 1960′s, under the auspices of ‘Lagunas del Barbate’, public access to much of the La Janda basin had been severely restricted, the feed rivers; Rio’s Barbate, Celemin and Almodovar been dammed and their waters together with those of numerous natural springs which also fed the Laguna had been placed under strict management. The Laguna de la Janda was drained and much of the surrounding plains and pastures lost to intensive cultivation.

This deliberate and wilful destruction of La Janda is unbelievable in today’s more conservation conscious times and resulted in birds of international or regional importance being extirpated or severely reduced in number. Spain also lost its last breeding site for the Crane.

The Present Day

Despite the loss of its natural flooded and lagoon habitats the whole area is still recognised as having an extraordinary ecological richness comparable to the well protected and well-funded Parque Nacional de Coto Donana further to the north. The former laguna basin is nowadays criss-crossed by deep drainage channels which hold permanent water for the irrigation of crops and the summer flooding necessary for rice production. That said, during wet winters, the basin still floods and La Laguna de la Janda temporarily re-asserts itself. In 1999 the Junta de Andalucia commissioned studies to see whether the Laguna could be restored, at least in part. In spite of the very positive results of the study (Duenas Lopez M.A., 2000) no action has yet to be taken. The Junta de Andalucia has similarly not acted on any of the formal requests by several conservation NGO’s including the Sociedad Espanola de Ornitologia to recognise the ecological value of La Janda and declare the area ‘Special Protection Area’ (SPA) under European law. La Janda has no conservation protection whatsoever!

The future

The restoration and protection of the La Janda basin is critically important for the future survival and recovery of one of the richest bird communities within the Iberian Peninsula and, for the wellbeing of a significant proportion of northern and western European migratory birds.

The designation of La Janda as a “Special Protection Area” (SPA) and/or RAMSAR site is simply a matter of political will for the Junta de Andalucia and the handful of landowners who control this vast area. The ecological evidence to support this legal protection status is both well documented and over-whelming.

SPA and/or RAMSAR designation not only affords legal protection, it also opens the door to European Union and other international funding which would enable the restoration of the Laguna de la Janda and offer a viable alternative to the intensive agriculture currently being undertaken both within the former laguna basin and also on the surrounding extensive grasslands. Studies have shown that the restoration of the Laguna is viable and the first steps towards this goal should be actively pursued as a matter of urgency.

Appendix 1

Globally threatened Birds of La Janda

Marbled Teal Marmaronetta angustirostris Vulnerable

Small population used to breed. Could naturally return if Laguna is restored.

Spanish Imperial Eagle Aquila adalberti Vulnerable

1 to 3 pairs still breed. Used to be far more common in 19^th Century. Poisoning and persecution largely responsible for this decline

Lesser Kestrel Falco naumanni Vulnerable

Important feeding ground for local breeding populations and migration.

Great Bustard Otis tarda Vulnerable

Abundant at the beginning of 20^th Century, last one died in 2006. Restoration of grasslands and a re-introduction programme would now be necessary.

Ferruginous Duck Aythya nyroca Near threatened

Small population used to breed. Could return naturally if Laguna restored.

Little Bustard Tetrax tetrax Near threatened

Scarce resident of grassland. Prior to intensive agriculture was abundant.

BirdLife International (2000). Threatened birds of the World. Barcelona and Cambridge, UK: Lynx Edicions and Birdlife International

Appendix 2

Regionally threatened Birds of La Janda

Black-necked Grebe Podiceps nigricollis Minor Risk

Extirpated. This once common breeder could return if Laguna restored.

Little Bittern Ixobrychos minutus Vulnerable

Once common. Small numbers have returned to breed.

Black-crowned Night-Heron Nycticorax nycticorax Minor Risk

Once common. Small numbers have returned to breed

Squacco Heron Ardeola ralloides Critically endangered

Once common. Extirpated. One pair bred 2012. Could return if Laguna restored.

Eurasian Bittern Botaurus stellaris Critically endangered

Extinct as a breeder and wintering bird.

Purple Heron Ardea purpurea Vulnerable

Formally an abundant breeder. Small numbers occasionally breed.

Black Stork Ciconia nigra Endangered

Common migrant and occasional winter visitor.

Glossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellus Endangered

Once common breeder. In 2012 returned to breed for first time in over 100 years!

Spoonbill Platalea leucorodia Vulnerable

Once a common breeder, small numbers have returned.

Black-winged Kite Elanus caeruleus Vulnerable

Small numbers breed

Egyptian Vulture Neophron percnopterus Critically endangered

Small numbers breed nearby. La Janda important as feeding area

Marsh Harrier Circus aeruginosus Endangered

Once abundant breeder.. Numbers would increase with restoration of Laguna.

Montagu’s Harrier Circus pygargus Vulnerable

Once abundant breeder. Numbers would less intensive agriculture

Bonelli’s Eagle Hieraaetus fasciatus Vulnerable

Small numbers breed in surrounding forests.

Osprey Pandion haliaetus Vulnerable

1 -2 pairs breed

Merlin Falco columbarius Data deficient

Winter visitor.

Crested Coot Fulica cristata Critically Endangered

Once an abundant breeder. Extirpated.

Water Rail Rallus aquaticus Data Deficient

Spotted Crake Porzana porzana Data Deficient

Formerly the most common crake. Extirpated?

Baillon’s Crake Porzana pusilla Data Deficient

Andalusian Hemipode Turnix sylvatica Critically Endangered

Extirpated

Common Crane Grus grus Minor risk

Common winter visitor (up to 2000 birds). Still display in early spring but do not now remain to breed. The La Janda breeding population was finally extirpated in 1954….the last in Spain.

Stone Curlew Burhinus oedicnemus Vulnerable

Scarce resident of grasslands. Once abundant.

Collared Pratincole Glareola pratincola Endangered

Used to be very common. Small numbers still breed.

Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius Data Deficient

Small numbers breed

Kentish Plover Charadrius alexandrinus Endangered

Small numbers breed

Gull-billed Tern Gelochelidon nilotica Vulnerable

Scarce migrant but may breed this year!

Black Tern Chlidonias niger Critically Endangered

Along with the Whiskered Tern, the’marsh terns’ were extirpated at the end of the 19^th Century. Could return if Laguna restored.

Turtle Dove Streptopelia turtur Vulnerable

Common breeder but numbers still declining.

Kingfisher Alcedo atthis Vulnerable

Scarce breeder

Red-rumped Swallow Hirundo daurica Data Deficient

Scarce breeder

Savi’s Warbler Locustella luscinioides Data Deficient

Last bred in 1925. Would return if Laguna restored.

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Against this vivid backdrop of sky, distant shores and calm sea came a ragged line of huge, almost prehistoric looking birds. Dagger like, deep vermillion beaks, jet black head, neck, tail and wings two metres across, glowing white underparts and long trailing vermillion legs. Fifteen in total, so close we lowered our binoculars and watched awe-struck by the grace and strange beauty as they lazily circled around our hill once, twice, before drifting south over the Strait to Morocco. Eighty three Black Storks passed us that day, along with over 2,500 of their far more common congener the White Stork. It was however, the raptors we were really there for and the sky was full of them.

Moving south down the Atlantic coastline of the Costa de Luz, past the spectacular Roman ruins of Baelo Claudia and the massive dunes of Bolonia and Valdevaqueros, or, descending from the foothills and mountains of the beautiful Parque Natural de los Alcornocales, the birds of prey were arriving in their thousands. Some simply drifted purposefully by, straight over the sea and on to their wintering quarters further south, many more seemed to linger on our side, either circling around seeking a thermal or simply resting up on any available fence post, bare branch, pylon or telephone pole in the vicinity. At times one found oneself instinctively ducking to avoid being struck and the sound of air being beaten by massive wings was all around. Honey Buzzards, 3800 of them, in various colour morphs from dark chocolate to the palest creams were the most abundant although, as they came through in waves, at times it appeared that the Black Kites (2,200), the ermine plumaged Short-toed Eagles (1,600) or Europe’s smallest eagle, the Booted Eagle (1,200) may have been as common.

Autumn migration across the Strait of Gibraltar is arguably the most exciting, impressive and visually stunning wildlife spectacle in Europe. On days like this, when weather conditions are perfect for soaring birds and other raptors, their abundance, diversity and closeness can be truly phenomenal. Amidst the almost continuous passage of Honey Buzzards, Black Kites, Short-toed and Booted Eagles many other birds of prey were also coming through, albeit in smaller numbers. Flocks of the mainly resident Griffon Vulture were omnipresent, circling over the nearby foothills and occasionally drifting overhead to reveal their massive size. Sixty odd of the more diminutive Egyptian Vulture, mostly the distinctive black and white adults with the heads washed in yellow/orange, “passed over” in small parties without hesitating on their way to Africa. Red Kite, Marsh Harrier, Hen Harrier (2) and Montagu’s Harrier (60), Sparrowhawk, Goshawk (14), Common Buzzard, Osprey (4), Lesser and Common Kestrel, Hobby and Peregrine all put in appearances. As if all this variety was not enough to satisfy our ornithological lust, we were also gifted by amazing views of a single Black Vulture and two of the rare almost exclusively African Ruppell’s Vulture among a party of twenty or so Griffons that loitered briefly overhead, no less than three beautiful, Long-legged Buzzards resplendent in their rufous, black and white plumage, a single Lanner Falcon perched for ages on a nearby fence post, two very scarce Eleanora’s Falcons who were having great fun hassling the myriads of hirundines that were also passing through and finally by a majestic Spotted Eagle which soared overhead for several minutes before heading north again!

At the end of our day we were exhausted but deeply satisfied. We had seen close on 10,000 raptors of 24 species, 2,500 White Storks, countless swifts, including many Alpine Swift, a few White-rumped Swift and a single Little Swift, hundreds of Bee-eaters, thousands of swallows and martins, and numerous other passerines. My highlight? Without doubt the fifteen Black Storks. Their deep vermillion bare parts and their jet black and gleaming white plumage against such a beautiful and vivid backdrop; that view will be etched in my mind forever.

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